Alas, today is the last full day here in Turkey with everyone. While today was pretty much designed as a free for all, with the exception of a few people who missed some of the earlier monuments, everyone pretty much chose to spend the day together. It was a great testament to the wonderful group dynamic we had this trip. Aww now I’m feeling all sentimental.

We started off heading to this small mosque nestled in a small neighborhood. On our way over there, we had to trek through the Russian neighborhood, where it became evident that the incident we saw last night was not only not uncommon [triple negative…*cringe*] but was in fact one of the top three industries the Russians provide to Istanbul. Ah well someone has to do it.

The great thing about the mosque we visited was the fact that we were probably to first visitors to step inside this mosque since its ribbon cutting ceremony.  The caretaker was so ecstatic that he came up during one of Omid’s lectures, grabbed Mitch by  the arm, pulled him to the other side of the mosque, and started excitedly jabbering about … something. I really need to learn Turkish. However, Mitch’s look of total incomprehension? Priceless.

Sooo…I’m pretty sure we learned something at this mosque. Can’t quite remember what though (sorry, Omid). Unfortunate side effect to writing blog posts so long after they happen. All I remember is feeling sleepy and thinking that the air smelled musty.

Afterwards, we hike ourselves down cobblestone pathways to visit the Suleymaniye, Sinan’s masterpiece. I’m pretty excited because I’ve heard great things and I’ve more or less been a fan of Sinan’s other mosques. Alas, the universe was once again conspiring against us – the entire mosque was closed for restoration. Pshh lame. But props to the restoration crew – I wouldn’t want to have their job:

We do go and visit two of the tombs outside the Suleymaniye – one for the Sultan who commissioned it and the other for his wife (epic love story – he broke 350 years of tradition to marry her – *sigh* be still my beating heart). We were given the task of guessing what famous building his tomb was modeled after. The conversation went something like this:

Me: “Hmm…so is the building a mosque?”

Omid: “Yes, at one point”

Omid: “I’ll give you a clue – it’s not in Turkey.”

Ellen: “This severely restricts the number of mosques I’ve seen.”

Despite being given the number of sides (eight) and location (in every CNN report of Jerusalem), I was completely oblivious to the fact it was modeled on…yes, you’ve probably guessed it: the Dome on the Rock. I need to get out more.

We also went to go visit Sinan’s tomb. Anticlimatic.

So the group disperses at this point and the majority of us head back to the Spice Bazaar to do some last minute shopping and souvenir purchasing. I am basically following like a blind puppy as the afternoon sun starts taking its toll on my ability to be alert and present. Bonus to walking around with one’s eyes closed? Shopkeepers don’t yell at you in garbled English. Which is surprising considering most Americans do seem to go through life with their eyes closed. [ba dum ching]

Eventually I give up on shopping (total number of souvenirs purchased for friends and family: zero), and I go back to our lovely hotel and sink into the sweet embrace of my bed’s soft sheets. Sighhh heavenly.

The plan: meet in the lobby at 6:50. The goal: to go to this restaurant in Taksim Square that David had found in his guide book. Such a simple ordeal. Not.

Well we did leave within the half hour window that seemed to dictate our departures throughout this entire trip. And the trip to the other side of town was relatively uneventful, with only minor detours and delays. So when we arrive in Taksim Square, I assume that we are almost to the restaurant. Thank god, because my stomach is rumbling quite loudly at this point.

However, it was not to be. We wandered up the main road, and then back down again. Down a side street and then back up it. Oh maybe let’s try this residential area, or maybe this dingy, smelly dark alley. Oops, not this one, time to turn around again guys!

At this point, Ellen is sending death glares at any unfortunate soul who happens to be making eye contact. It’s not the fact that we are going in circles, or the fact that we had to turn around and backtrack on four separate occasions (I hate backtracking), or even the fact that we are travelling in a large, obviously American tour group as we follow a guy with his nose stuck in a guidebook (a scenario I’ve always hated and avoided at all costs). What really got on my nerves is that we literally passed about a hundred different restaurants. All equally good. All equally delicious. I was finding it difficult to stifle my stomach’s chants for mutiny.

Eventually, through gritted teeth, we politely insist that we stop our futile search for a restaurant that could only be marginally better than the millions we were passing. A place is picked and we spend our dinner sampling a variety of mezes as an obnoxious band blasts music in our ears. Ok, the music wasn’t that obnoxious. Their hassling attempt for money was.

After dinner some people went home and others went out on the town. Highlight of the night? My double chocolate Magnum bar. Mmmm absolutely delicious. Being the old fart that I’ve become, I didn’t  stay out too late. We instead sprinted back, caught the last funicular [thanks awesome operators!], and made it back safely to our hotel.

And thus ends the last night the entire group is here in Istanbul.